GL Racing Formula One

1/28 scale is an interesting scale to build racing cars at. The majority of clubs run Kyosho Mini-Z or more advanced cars by Reflex Racing, GL Racing, or a few other brands (Associated launched a full race grade car too). The majority of them are based on pan car designs. They have a split chassis with a motor pod on the rear and a main deck at the front. This usually means suspension for the rear is in the flex of the rear pod, and the front is covered by small springs either integrated into the wheel hubs or sometimes using shocks and tiny shock towers.

The GL Formula One (not to be confused with the GL F1) is not one of those designs. It uses a chassis and top deck arrangement more similar to a 1/10 touring car or buggy. It has a full gear box arrangement at the back and a fully functional independent shock suspension using rods and a pivot to get the shocks into the centre of the chassis just like a real F1 car. 

This was my first 1/28 scale full kit build (though I’ve worked on a few Mini-Z cars based on MR02 and MR03) so it was a bit of a learning curve. It goes together very well but working on it is definitely more complex than most  of the 1/10 cars that I’m used to building and working on. I had a few moments when a tiny piece fell off my workbench and had to tear the workshop apart to find it! 

The suspension really is a lovely thing to behold on a car at this scale!

Another very nice thing about this car is the very high detail licensed McLaren hard bodies that are available for the car. I went with the black and orange Lando Norris number 4 car, but have been tempted to grab an Oscar Piastri 81 car variant too, they do them in white and orange too and they also do the Senna tribute livery car that Lando drove too. I’ll probably run it for a bit but if I decided to race I would decorate my own Lexan body kit.

One negative of the detailed hard bodies is that they are very tight for space inside. The car is already tight on space for the electronics, but the hard bodies really are designed around using the GL designed ESC and battery your power unit (which it doesn’t explicitly mention in any of the documentation btw). I found this out after trying to fit the Hobbywing Mini28 ESC, which was about 1.5mm too tall on account of the connections being on the top edge. Even with the prescribed GL Racing ESC things are pretty tight and I had to resolder all of the motor cabling so that it pointed vertically down the side of the ESC.

The Lexan body kits look like they have a little more space inside so might just work with the Mini28. I’ll see if it fits when my Lexan kit arrives.

When that does arrive I’ll have to choose which F1 livery I want to copy. Thinking about Mercedes, Ferrari, Williams or maybe a reimagining of a mid 90’s livery; a nice yellow Jordan maybe... Decisions, decisions!

The kit also requires tyres for the lovely machined delrin hubs that come with the kit. These are specialist F1 wheels that have an outer lip for extra scale realism. Marka tyres seem to be the brand of the day here. They do look nice too. I also ordered some PN wheels too, which are designed for the style of flat tyres you’d see on a Kyosho Mini-Z, which PN also do. These are wider wheels and tyres than Kyosho supply too. 11mm on the front and 14mm in the rear. 

So now with all the right electronics in place (including re-soldering all of the cables to point downwards) it's ready for a quick run. 

My very first run before I re-soldered all the cables I found the diff to be way too loose, causing a lot of drivetrain slippage. I feel like the manual could be clearer in how to set it up. But tightening it is pretty easy so got it pulling away quite nicely. Now I just need to find a nice track to test it out on.

Radiomaster MT12 Surface Racing Update - The Race LUA

Editors note: First, just a quick note to say I started writing this post (and then forgot about it) about a month ago and have re-written it to cover the change of path that the project has taken.

The Radiomaster MT12 has a lot of configurability, but has been deservedly been criticised for not being especially easy to use or particularly friendly for surface radio users, who often use different terminology for various radio functions as they relate to surface operation rather than flight.

This has led one Thomas Nagel to create a new UI-modifying LUA script for the MT12. A full reimagining of the user interface with specific regard to how it gets used by track racing users, adding functionality in a way that circumvents users having to navigate the complex menus of the EdgeTX operating system.

In Thomas's words:

"RadioMaster MT12 is a serious surface radio. EdgeTX still thinks like planes."

"MT12 Race Lua is the car layer on top: 

- Race home (pack/cell, LQ/SNR, laps, heat timer)

- Drive aids: ABS, soft launch, SSTC, CBC, DSR 

- Tune on the radio screen — no laptop"

It was originally available here (buymeacoffee.com) and directly purchasable from Thomas, but it then was mysteriously taken down with broken links everywhere on that site.

Thomas had stated in Facebook group chats that he was looking into seeing if Radiomaster themselves would want to take it on and make it an official update/release for the MT12. Something that would no doubt set them up for a revival of their surface project, which has been laying quietly dormant since the MT12 came out; even with relatively few updates to the receiver hardware despite new tech coming to market that would improve the offering.

The future could be bright for this range and with the Race LUA it could genuinely take off if we see a new model of surface controller.

Anyway, I paid for the LUA from Thomas, and have it installed on my handset. It's a nice interface and takes a lot of the guesswork (and just general work) out of making new functions in EdgeTX.

From my brief bench testing it does some very cool things pretty well:
 - ABS; which feathers the brakes (and is not advised for electric vehicles apparently)
 - Traction Control; which effectively puts a limit on the speed you can pull the power up.
 - Throttle based steering limiting; when your going fast your steering angle is limited.
 - Steering based throttle reduction, as you turn your maximum throttle is decreased.

 - Cornering ABS; when you steer any braking is feathered to avoid lockups.

I appreciate some of these things might not be allowed/advised on certain competitive circuits but they'll certainly aid a few people who just want to have a play and see what can be done with an EdgeTX remote.

I hope Radiomaster take it on and do the MT12 justice with dedicated surface UI support.

Radiomaster MT12 ELRS and 4-in-1 receiver compatibility and notes

This is a basic list of receivers that I’ve used and can confirm work with my MT12. I have the internal ELRS board and the external 4-in-1 Multi module.

All ELRS receivers appear to work exactly as you’d expect, with incredibly low latency and solid range; and with the full configurability that you’d expect from ELRS equipment.

The receivers operating with the 4-in-1 transmitter module should also work according to spec, but there are anecdotal reports of some being a little slower than when used with 1st party transmitters. I cannot verify these claims.

ELRS Receivers

- Radiomaster ER3C-i

- Radiomaster ER5C-i

- BetaFPV SuperP

4-in-1 MULTI Receivers

- Kyosho Mini-Z ASF

- Kyosho Mini-Z FHSS

- DumboRC P4FM

Additional notes

DumboRC P4FM is not listed on the official list of supported receivers. It is the replacement for the X4FM. The X series of receivers is mentioned as compatible on the 4in1 Multi website list, but they don’t mention the X4 models. This is a tiny receiver that uses JST connectors for use with 1/28 scale and similar size models.

Kyosho Mini-Z MR02 - 27MHz upgraded to FHSS!

I recently came across some information on the Mini-Z subReddit that has allowed me to make use of an old Kyosho MR02 model that I bought about a year ago but never had a 27MHz transmitter for.

So for anyone searching the internet that wants to get an analog 27MHz MR02 up to FHSS (regardless of whether or not the chassis is still "valid" or whatever...) here is what you need.

Kyosho MA-020 Receiver Set (RA45)

- The Kyosho MA-020 Reciever Set (RA45) - a soldering iron. 

The MA-020 board is the same width as the 27MHz MR02 board and it matches the retention pin size at the motor end.

The wires are mostly different length to the original board and some are not long enough so will need replacing. Here are my build notes.
 
- Extend the wires for the servo pot (reuse the old ones from the MR02 board)
- The servo motor wire is fine and about the right length.
- The other wires are all a touch too long and would be tidier shortened down, but you can just tuck them away around the board.
- The aerial cable on the MA-020 is a bit awkward for direct fitting, you may want to drill a hole for it in the chassis cover, but you can just tuck it in against the board with the other excess wires.
- The extra ports on the top of the MA-020 board for the gyro and USB setup do not fit under the standard 27MHz MR02 chassis cover. I decided I'd never use them on this model, so removed them. You could desolder them, or just chop them down with edge cutters, or if you're feeling crafty, get the dremel out and cut some suitable holes in the chassis cover. If you're handy with a 3D printer then maybe even print a new cover?

When you're putting it all back together also be sure to bind your radio before putting the lid back on, as the bind button is then hidden from access (unless you drill a hole for it).

I bound mine to my Radiomaster MT12 (with 4in1 module), and can now play with my old McLaren F1

 

Yokomo RS2.0 - Incredible budget 1/10 TC chassis

 
    The Yokomo RS 2.0 is a 1/10 scale racing car chassis, which is not only a Yokomo, it's also insanely cheap. In the UK, MB Models (Yokomo's UK distributor) has this priced at £150, and they throw in a set of pre-glued racing wheels & tyres.

    The RS 2.0 is a belt driven, 4WD, low centre of gravity chassis with racing specs and great levels of adjustability. It's highly driveable straight out of the box and comes with everything that people have been clamouring for in the low price space from the established brands. This is Yokomo taking the fight to the likes of 3Racing and Xpress in the entry level racing market. 

    To reach this price point Yokomo have opted to make the kit of plastic. But the plastics all feel great. We also have ball bearings throughout, plastic adjustable oil shocks, adjustable turnbuckles across all four corners of the suspension. There's space on the deck for full length and shorty packs, and for various internal arrangements. As you can see in the picture to the right, in my case I've put the ESC on the same side as my shorty LiPo in order to help balance out the left-right weight distribution. Even with my stubby servo and tiny radio receiver the motor still outweighs the battery and ESC. Maybe I'll try some bigger batteries?

    The kit all goes together perfectly as per the instructions, althought there is one omission from the instructions that I think is a necessary step. It misses out the lower belt tensioner piece from the instructions. It is an included part, with bearings, but just seems to go missing. The steps for building and installing it are in the RS1.0 manual though so you can check that out.

    Yokomo's "Rookie" cars are gaining traction and offer a great entry point to people looking to get into any class of racing. This RS2.0 is for the on-road touring car racers, then there the RO2.0 for your offroad buggy racing, and there's also the RD2.0 for the drifters. The kits all deliver well rounded adjustable cars, which you just need to add the electronics to.

    My RS2.0 has a Hobbywing Justock system in it, with the XR10 G3S ESC and Justock 21.5T G2.1 motor. This is the spec for the series I want to run it in. BRCA's latest on road series; the BRCA Sportscar Endurance Championship, based loosely on WEC LMH. It's an open chassis, with open tyre choices, but stock motor and blinky ESC. I've paired that with a SRT CH6012 low profile servo, which is a fast and plenty strong enough servo for lower speed 1/10 on-road racing. All I need now is a Montech LMH body shell and some RC friends to make up a team!...

    On my first test outing with the car, running basically kit setup (slightly higher, 6mm, ride height for my running spot) and no shell on it, I was amazed at how easy it is to drive. The 21.5T motor with stock gearing is actually a really good fit for the space I test my cars. I have some other cars (namely an upgraded Tamiya TA03RS and a Yokomo SO1.0) with lower turn motors and they can be a bit of a handful at speed here.

This is a quite excellent car that is priced immensely well. There's really not a lot more to say about it. The kit setup drives great out of the box and it's upgradeable to a decent level. It really is a superb car, let alone for the money!

I'll write an update when I have the shell and some track running under my belt!

UPDATE #1

    New shell for this car. I went with a hatch-back style frontie/rally shell because frankly I don't really like the modern TC shells (they don't look like actual touring cars). This is the Mon-Tech WR4, and my second paint job this year. I really quite like the shell. It's got a lot of nice details and it comes with some pretty decent decals to finish the look off. If you look too closely you'll see there are some paint bleeds on some edges (thanks to some old masking tape) but overall I like the colour combo and layout. Some of the worst offences are covered by the stickers and decals so got away with a few of them!

     I also now have a bit of track running time under my belt after a little trip to West London Racing Centre. The track over there is really nicely maintained and has a great surface. The grip levels are vastly higher than my home running/bashing spots and I was pleasantly surprised that the car could nearly flat out round the whole track bar a couple of the tighter corners. This leads me to thinking I'm definitely going to have to gear this car up a bit more as the stock gearing doesn't suit the 21.5T motor I currently have installed.

AGFRC A81BHPW 23kg Waterproof Servo

I got lucky and picked one of these up on eBay for under £40 and super impressed with this one. Probably the fastest servo I’ve come across. It’s also practically silent in operation.

It’s a Chinese made servo, built to a very high standard. AGFRC are actually an OEM maker for a number of other super high grade servo brands, so their own products are sort of a showcase of what they can build at a variety of price points.

It does however have some beautifully translated literature. My favourite line on the website page is probably this absolute gem:

    “Even in the wet and drizzle environment, can also satisfy your love of a model heart.”

Pure poetry I’m sure you’ll agree!

Anyway onto the important bit; how good is it?

This is a really very high quality servo. Strong, fast, quiet, and it re-centres really nicely. It's got plenty of torque, even at 6V, and is still very rapid. It goes al the way up to 8.4V and just gets increasingly powerful and fast! I’ve currently got it fitted in my Yokomo SO1.0 2WD racing buggy and, even with my poor mans ESC and motor, I can’t really think of anything that could make it significantly better for that application.
 

Here are the features and tech specs:
- Heat Sink Fast Cooling Design
- Fully Waterproof IP67
- Robust Steel Gears and Shafts
- Super Strong Three Ball Bearings
- Long Lifespan Brushless Motor
- Programmable Digital Circuit
- Lightning-Quick Speed
- High-Voltage Compatible
- High Precision Magnetic Angular Position Sensor

Stall Torque
12 kg-cm (167 oz-in) @ 4.8V
16 kg-cm (222 oz-in) @ 6.0V
19 kg-cm (264 oz-in) @ 7.4V
23 kg-cm (320 oz-in) @ 8.4V

Operating Speed
0.080sec/60° @ 4.8V
0.070sec/60° @ 6.0V
0.060sec/60° @ 7.4V
0.052sec/60° @ 8.4V

How to firmware update a RadioMaster MT12 surface radio

 

The Radiomaster MT12 is a complex beast. There are numerous parts to the controller that need their own, separately developed, firmware updates. It’s not the easiest process to follow from a completely new user perspective as it effectively has a few hardware parts that need firmware, and the EdgeTX operating system. All of which are regularly updated. There are guides on the various project websites, but they might not be the easiest to follow because they cover the update processes for all of the compatible radio manufacturers.

I'm going to breakdown the elements of the radio version that I have and use (with the ELRS internal board and the 4-in1 external module).

Breakdown of elements:

- EdgeTX operating system
- ELRS firmware (internal module)
- ELRS backpack firmware (internal module)
- RM 4-in-1 module firmware (external module)

Edge TX is the operating system of the radio and effectively the base firmware that everything else runs on top of. It’s worth keeping this as up to date as the radio allows, as it will improve functionality and correct any previous bugs of the radio software.

First let’s see if you need to update. With the radio turned on, press SYS, then page left to page 7/7. Here you'll see the version information. This will tell you what version EdgeTX is on. In my case, in the image below, I'm on v2.10.5 and at time of writing no newer versions were available.

If it was a lower version then the update process is relatively straightforward. Go to https://buddy.edgetx.org/ and follow the instructions by selecting the MT12 from the drop down menu. You can then update directly through the USB port on the side of your radio (under the rubber cover) or through the bootloader on the SD card.

Note; On my first attempt to connect the browser through the USB port on Windows 11, the device didn't show up on the list. I had to fix the USB driver using the following link:  https://impulserc.blob.core.windows.net/utilities/ImpulseRC_Driver_Fixer.exe 

Once I'd done that the SMT32 Bootloader device  appeared as it should. I was then able to update with no problems at all. This updated both the bootloader version and the EdgeTX version.

ExpressLRS is the protocol that the internal module uses as the radio link with the vehicle receiver. It's an open source protocol that is regularly updated and is probably the most advanced radio control protocol on the market today.

To check the ELRS version press SYS and on the TOOLS page scroll down to the ExpressLRS entry (LUA script). In here are lots of configuration options for the transmitter and offers some receiver control too. Scroll right to the bottom (or scrolling up one take you there too) and you'll see the version number above the Exit option. I my case as shown in the picture below, I'm up to date on 3.5.3 and no newer versions were available at the time of writing.

If you have a lower version then it's worth updating to take advantage of new features, performance enhancements and any bug fixes since your version.

To update you'll need the ExpressLRS Configurator. This is available from: 

 https://github.com/ExpressLRS/ExpressLRS-Configurator/releases 

Download the latest version for your computer operating system, and install it. Once you've installed it, run the program and follow the instructions (quite similar to the EdgeTX process). Select your device from the drop downs (RadioMaster 2.4GHz and RadioMaster MT12 Internal).

You can go about ELRS updates in a couple of ways. I recommend to either go through the USB port (EdgeTX Passthrough) or to update via WiFi. USB is definitely faster though.

I won't go through the device options and settings here, you can probably leave them as they appear and be fine. I'll do a separate post about those later.

Once you've got your radio plugged into USB select USB Serial (VCP) and it should appear in the device COM selection as STMicroelectronics. You may have to manually select it from the drop down if it doesn't select it automatically.

Note: If it doesn't appear in the list (like it did for me on Windows 11), then go to this site: https://www.st.com/en/development-tools/stsw-stm32102.html to download the latest version. Once that's installed you should be able to select it and update your radio.

ExpressLRS Backpack is only really a feature used by other control devices to control the radio. So for example if you are using FPV goggles and want to make changes to the radio, you can see what you are doing inside the goggles. I'm not personally using this functionality, but I feel like it's probably worth having this feature up to date with your ELRS version in case you find yourself thinking about FPV. The update process is basically the same as the main ELRS update. Choose your version, then your radio, and flashing method. Then hit the Flash button and it should work. To check your installed version you'll see the "backpack" listing in the ExpressLRS settings; scroll down and you'll see the version.

RM 4-in-1 module is the module that clips onto the top of the radio and gives us multi protocol support through 4 discreet chipsets built in. There is an internal module also available in the 4-in-1 version of the MT12. This guide is for my version of the MT12 which has internal ELRS and an external 4-in-1 module.

First things first, again, we'll check the version number. With a model selected that has the external module active, press SYS and go to page 7/7 again and select Modules/RX version. In there you'll see the Ext module version. As seen in the picture to the right mine is V1.3.4.12 (which is the latest pre-release version at the time of writing).

The downloads of the latest firmware can be found here: https://downloads.multi-module.org/ 
Select your configuration from the left drop down box. In this case with the external module we will select RadioMaster RM 4in1 External Module.
Then select the options on the right to narrow down the downloads to the one you need. Once you've selected the module in the left box you'll just need to select Firmware type: Surface and Channel Order: AETR. This should bring you to the bottom of the page where the firmware version you need is listed. In this case it's called "mm-stm-serial-aetr-sfc-v1.3.4.0.bin".

To install you can connect over a couple of methods. For this I like the flash from radio method. But I'll touch on the Flash Multi app too. Basically add the .bin file you downloaded to the SD card Firmware folder by using the USB port under the flap (use the storage connection method). Once it's transferred just navigate to the SD card and Firmware folder (page 2). Hit select on the firmware file and flash to ext module, and that should start the update.

Note: The MT12 has a low character count screen. Files with too long names will be excluded from the listings, so rename the .bin file to something shorter like "4in1-fw-v1.3.4.0" so that it appears in the list. 

The other method is by using the Flash Multi app, which uses the USB port on the top of the module. Download your firmware, download the app (from here: https://github.com/benlye/flash-multi), run the app and add your firmware to the app. Select the right com port, like for the ELRS and EdgeTX update tools and hit the button. Should be quite quick.

For the very latest test builds of firmware for the 4in1 multi module go to:
https://downloads.multi-module.org/latest-test/

And there you go a fully updated controller!

 

I hope this helps a few people out as I know this is a complicated controller, but well worth perservering for the performance to price ratio! Keep an eye out for more guides to this controller.